The KK range all feature external keels, strips of balsa joined by their edge to the bottom of the boat. I found that these were often a weak point, flexing, cracking, and then letting water into a difficult-to-seal leak. When I left the keels completely off my boats had a much longer life...
Much of the fun in making an EeZeBilt was learning how to do things better. These boat kits were ideal bases on which ideas could be tried out and developed. Have you got any improvements that you incorporated in your own kits?
If the idea is for a fitting for a specific boat, it will normally go in the Fittings section. If it is a more general clever idea to improve an EeZeBILT, I'll put in here....
Here are a few I can recall - contributions gratefully received, as always...
Sealing the rudder tube can be tricky - it's very small and expansion/contraction will soon break the small glue joint. I usually solder a small washer to the rudder tube to increase the glue area...
Balsa is an awful wood for painting! It requires large amounts of sealant and lots of sanding. Where possible, do this before assembly -sanding gets really hard and fiddly when everything is put together. In particular, ensure the inside ledges of the windows are sealed and smooth - it will ruin the appearance if you don't...
The prop shaft is very draggy with no bearings. You can use a next-size-up brass tube and solder a 1/2" length of the original tube front and back. Or do what I do - cut the tube off level with the bottom, and use a prop skeg to support the prop...
Motorising and installing a Radio
Putting a radio into an EeZeBilt, particularly a small one, can be a bit tricky. That is why we have the 50+ range.
"When I have sheet areas around my models I bond on tissue. It's quite easy, and is a well established process:
Give the hull 2 or 3 coats of dope, sanding between each coat (not too critical to get a great finish). Cut tissue panels oversize - quite large bits can be used, the entire deck can be from one bit, and then other bits for the hull sides, and bottoms.
Damp the tissue by laying it on a worktop and soaking with a sponge. Put the damp tissue in place on the boat and then flood through with neat cellulose thinners.Because the tissue is damp it will take on compound curves, and the thinners will activate the dope coats and pull the thinned dope into the tissue.You can then complete with a couple more coats of dope, sanding between coats, but because the wood grain has gone, again this is quick and easy."
It is surprising how ding-proof this method is once done, and its pretty light weight too."
Long runs of unsupported 1/16 balsa will sag or warp in the damp and with age. There is always lots of spare strip left over from these kits - use it to add strength. Reinforce 1/16 edges, long unsupported runs, or places where an accessory is going to be attached...
