As usual we start by cutting out the formers. These are 1/8" balsa - and some of my worst stock - very soft indeed! Still, it's only a prototype, and I'll be changing things as I go...
The rear sub-deck fits onto the angled front leaving a couple of slots for the former.
When dry, the top formers go in. They should all be vertical. A strip of hard 1/8"x1/4" is glued across the top to hold them steady...
Note that the Former 4 doubler provides support to the rear deck. The actual former provides suppor to the deck hatch, when it is on.
...for the joined deck halves to be glued on top.
Check that everything is square, and that former 4 comes just in front of the deck hole
Now let's put the deck hatch on. Put a bit of clingfilm over the deck hole, and insert the two superstructure sides into their support slots. Be careful to get them the right way around!
We don't have any frames holding the angled sub-deck - just rely on the keel and make sure they are glued at an angle of 90 deg.
Now glue the three deck parts into position. The clingfilm will stop any glue getting onto the hull. The rear cabin sides go on now - note that the stern cabin side goes on top of the deck, which my prototype does not show...
The rear keel and transom can go on now
We have not yet got a 50+ equivalent of the TERRIER - one of the most popular of the smaller EeZeBilts. So here is a contribution our American readers should appreciate. A simple hull, but the fittings call for a bit of brass work and soldering. It's a good boat to introduce kids into more advanced modelling. And it does look good on a bedroom cabinet...
Once dry and stiff, the roofs can go on. Don't do the curved side shields at this point - I am just trying them for size here. It is much easier to put them on last, once the bridge interior has been sanded and painted...
...and the bridge sides, windscreen and cabin front can be added.
