Tamar Build instructions


Let's start in the usual way - glue the two base floors together. To the stern of the hole for the motor mount there is another smaller hole - this is to allow clearance for anyone using a big HuCo-type connector. You can leave the hole out if you won't be doing this...

Glue the formers and the bow hook to the base. Note that Former 1 is tilted forwards, while all the others are vertical. 

Wait until they are dry and solid before attaching the side braces. The side braces are firmly glued to the base between the rear three formers, but there will bve a big gap between the first two formers - don't glue anything here yet...

Once the whole unit is dry and firm, bend the base up so that the side braces click into the slots on the front former. Glue in position - you might like to weigh it down while gluing to be sure. When that's dry, attach the lower parts of the formers and the keel under the hull.

When this unit is rigid, fit the transom. Note that it should curve around, so the grain should run vertically to make this easy to achieve.

Join the two front deck pieces and two rear deck pieces. When dry, attach them to the top of the formers.Note the rear deck support which runs across the hull - this also forms a little shelf to support the superstructure rear deck. The front deck follows the curve of the side braces and clips into the slot in the last former. You will need to pin or clamp it onto the tops of the formers to hold it in shape while it is drying..

Now you can fit the superstructure. Cut out the two sides and fit them into place, slotting the two front lugs into the holes in the front former. Glue the rear and front superstructure deck pieces to the sides to keep them apart, but do not let any glue get onto any part of the hull - we want to be able to remove the superstructure... 

When the supersructure is dry and rigid it can be removed from the hull, and the cockpit and roof added.Bevel the edges of the windscreen parts to enable a good joint, and sand them to a flowing shape once they are dry.

The prop-tube and motor mount are epoxied in before the hull is skinned. Bolt your motor to the motor mount, then assemble and pack the motor mount with thin scrap to get it to the correct angle before gluing.

The hull bottom skin should be attached to the hull next - look at the web site to see where a supporting fillet needs to be placed on the keel at the bow, and beveled to shape.

The side skins will be quite easy to fit, there is not much bending and few pins will be needed. Just a couple of rubber bands. Once the skins are in place the bottom skin can be slotted and the propeller guards added if you wish to include them - otherwise seal up the small slots in the transom. A small hole for the rudder tube completes the hull.


Now you have the basic hull, the railings and other fittings can be added. See the fittings page for details. It is probably better to do this after painting, since the railings will be already coloured. Then add the motor, radio, batteries and water..