Fit the prop tube and the rudder tube at this point. I left the rudder tube until later, and it was much harder to drill! The plans show the stern former with a rudder tube already set in the centre, and a short tube to fit the jackstaff into - a better way of putting them in than waiting till the end...
Once the sides are in place, trim the bow and chine line to fit. The bow can be beveled with sandpaper to accept the next side lying flat across it.
When the prop-shaft is set, slide the motor mount along until the correct match is obtained between the shaft and the motor, then drill a couple of fixing holes in the deck.
While the sides are drying, cut out and assemble the four cabin sides and the roof. They should be a sliding fit between the two rear formers - trim if necessary... but don't glue them to the hull. They are removeable to house the radio and batteries...
Put some holes through the formers and thread the motor leads through them to come up through the cabin floor.
Note that the rear of the side balsa sheet shown here on the test build is flat - in the final plan it is at a slant...
By now the sides should be set - add the bottom skins which will also require few pins.
The skins lie between the chine and the keel at the stern, then overlap the keel at the front to produce a sharp point.
Attach the sides, making sure the hull remains untwisted. It lies so flat that few pins will be necessary.
The sides are fitted to position at the stern and at the top deck line, and allowed to overlap at the chine and the bow.
If there are any holes or discontinuities, thin slivers of balsa can be used to patch them....
Cut the stern skin from cross grain balsa so it bends easily, then steam it in a kettle before fitting it. Again - the test build sheet shown is flat, but the plan shows one curved to fit the angled side sheet. It just butts up to the side pieces, and a doubler is placed inside the joint...
